Laos Travel Guide

Big ticket attractions including Wat Phu Champasak, the Mekong River islands of Si Phan Don and the Bolaven Plateau make Champasak one of the most visited provinces in Laos. Champasak has a long history that begin with participation in the Funan and Chenla empires between the 1th and 9th century AD. Between the 10th and 13th century became part of the Cambodian Angkor Empire. Following the decline between the 15th  late 17th centuries, it was enfolded into the Lan Xang kingdom but then broke away to become an independent Lao kingdom at the beginning 18th century. The short-lived Champasak kingdom had only three monarchs: Soi Sisamut (1713-37), who was the nephew of Suriya Vongsa, Sainyakuman (1737-91) and finally Fai Na (1791-1811).

Today Champasak Province has a population of more than 500,000 including lowland of Lao (many of them Phu Thai), Khmers and a host of small Mon-Khmer groups, most of whom live in the Bolaven Plateau region.
 

Admission US$3, children 8 & under free – Open: 8 am – 4.30 pm

The ancient Khmer religious complex of Wat Phu is one of the highlights of any trip to Laos. Stretching 1400 m up to the lower slopes of the Phu Pasak range (also known more colloquially as Phu Khuai or Mt Penis), Wat Phu is small compared with the monumental Angkor-era sites near Siem Reap in Cambodia. But the tumbledown pavilions, ornate Shiva-lingam sanctuary, enigmatic crocodile stone and tall trees that shroud much of the site in soothing shade give Wat Phu an almost mystical atmosphere. These, and a site layout that is unique in Khmer architecture, led to Unesco declaring the Wat Phu complex a World Heritage Site in 2001.

Sanskrit inscriptions and Chinese sources confirm the site has been worshiped since the mid 5th century. The temple complex was designed as a worldly imitation of heaven and fitted into a larger plan that evolved to include a network of roads, cities, settlement and other temples. What you see today is the product of centuries of building, rebuilding, alteration and addition, with the most recent structures dating from the late Angkorian period.

At its height the temple and nearby city formed the most important economic and political center in the region. But despite its historic importance, the 84 ha site remains in considerable danger from the elements. Detailed studies reveal that water erosion is pressuring the site and without a systematic water management plan the buildings will eventually collapse. Italian and Japanese funded the projects have helped stabilize the southern of two ancient canals built to channel water away from the central structures. However, the equally important northern side of the site. To see it, compare the relatively intact terraced steps and pavilions on the south of the site with those on the north, With about 1 million needed to repaired the northern canal and terrace, Wat Phu’s future is by no means secure.

But it’s not all doom and gloom. Years of work by the Italian Archaeological Mission and the inimitable Dr Patrizia Zolese, the leading expert on Wat Phu who has been working at the site since 1990, have resulted in the first detailed map on the site and surrounding 400 sq km, revealing much about way the ancients lived. During the last two years the local and falang archaeologists have restored the ceremonial causeway, replacing slabs and re-erecting stone makers that had been scattered across the site. Restoration of the Nandi Hall is underway and is expected to be finished in 2009.

Don’t miss the museum ( 8am – 4.30 pm) beside the ticket office. Extensive cataloging work has recently been completed on the dozens of lintels, nagas (mythical water serpents), Buddhas and other stone work from Wat Phu and it associated sites. Descriptions are in English.

CHAMPASAK IN ANTIQUITY

Under the palm trees and rice paddies 4km south of Champasak town is the remains of a city
that was about 1500 years ago, the capital of the Mon-Khmer Chenla kingdom. The site is known today as Muang Kao (Old City), but scholars believe It was called Shreitapura.

Aerial photographs show the remains of rectangular city measuring by 2.3km bay 1.8 km, surrounded bay double earthen walls on three sides and protected on the east by the Mekong river. Other traces of the old city include small baray, stone implements and ceramics. The sum of all this is an extremely rare example of an ancient urban settlement in the southeast Asia, one whose design reveals how important religious belief was in the workings of everyday life.
The original of the city remained a mystery until Southeast Asia’s oldest Sankrit inscription was discovered here. The 5th century stele stated the city was founded by king Devanika and was called Kuruksetra and also mentions the auspicious Sri Lingaparvata nearby, A clear reference to the mountain near Wat Phu Champasak. The “Honoured since antiquity” the mountain was believed to be the residence or the manifestation of the Hindu god Shiva, and even today local people honoured the mountain as the place of Phi Intha (the soul of protecting spirit of the mountain)
By the end of the 5th century the city was thriving. It continues as a major regional center until at least the 7th century, as showed by two Nandi Pedestal ( Shiva’s bull mount ) sculptures discovered in 1994-1995 bearing inscriptions by king Citrasena- Mahendaravarman, the conqueror who later shifted the kingdom’s capital to Sambor Prei Kuk in northeast Cambodia. Archaelogical material suggest the city was inhabited until the 16th century.

On going research bay Dr Zolese and her team has reveal that a second city was built near the Wat Phu after the 9th century. She believes the Nang Sida temple was at the centre of this city, which was probably Lingapura, a place mentioned in many ancient inscriptions but which has not been categorically identified by modern scholars.

Founded by the French in 1905 as an administrative outpost, Pakse sits a the confluence of the Mekong River and the SeDon ( Don River ) and is the capital of Champasak province. The town has grown quickly since the Lao –Japanese Bridge across the Mekong was opened in 2002, facilitating brisk trade with Thailand. Its position on the way to Si Phan Don in the far south, the Bolaven Plateau and remote provinces to the east, and Thailand to the west means anyone choosing to travel in the south will almost certainly spend time in Pakse.

The centre of Pakse retains the sort of Mekong river – town lethargy found in Savanakhet and Tha Khaek futher north. Fewer conolial – era buildings remain, though do look for the Franco – Chinese – style Chinese society building on Th 10 in the centre of town.

The vast Talat Dao Heung ( new market ) near the Lao – Japanese Bridge is one of the biggest in the country. Famous for its selection of fresh produce of coffee from the fertile Bolaven Plateau. Short day trips from the Pakse can made to Ban Saphai and Don Kho weaving centres 15 km north of town.

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

Champasak historical Heritage

Museum
Admission US$ 0.50 – Open 8.30 – 11.30 am & 1.30 – 4 pm
Has a few artifacts and a lot of boring documents chronicling history of the province. Once you get past the Lao and communist hammer – and – sickle flags at the entrance you are in the best part of the museum – three very old Dong Son bronze drums and striking 7th –century sandstone lintels found at Uo Moung (Tomo Temple). The simple textile and jewellery collection from the Nyaheun, Suay, and Laven groups is also interesting for its large iron ankle bracelets and ivory ear plugs since these are rarely worn nowadays.

Also on the ground floor are musical instruments, stelae in the Tham script dating from the 15th to 18th centuries, a water jar from the 11th or 12th century, a small lingam ( Shiva phallus ), plus a model of Wat Phu Champasak.

One you head upstairs you’ll be beginning you last five minutes in the museum. Apart a small collection of Buddha images and forlorn – looking American weaponry. It’s all headshots of party members.

Wats
There are about 20 wats in the city, of which Wat Luang and Wat Tham Fai ( both founded in 1935 ) are the largest.

A monastic school at Wat Luang features ornate concrete pillars whimsy departs from canonical art without losing the traditional effect. Behind the sim is a monk’s school in an original wooden building. A thaat on the ground contains the ashes of
Khamtay Loun Sasothit,a former prime minister in the Royal Lao Government.

Wat Tham Fai, near the Champasak Palace Hotel is undistinguished except for its spacious ground, making it a prime site for temple festival. It’s also known as Wat Pha Baht because there is a small Buddha footprint shrine. The stupas and Pepsi billboard near Rte 13 make good photos in the afternoon.

Massage and Sauna

The professional and popular massage and sauna Clinic Keo Ou Done (Traditional Medicine Hospice – Tel: 251895, 020-5431115 – Open: 4-9 pm Mon-Fri, 10 am – 9 pm Sat-Sun) has an air-con massage room and herbal sauna segregated by gender. A massage (highly recommended!), usually with medicated balms, costs US$ 2.50 per hour. Unlimited use of the herbal sauna costs US$ 0.80. To get there, take a jumbo east on Fte 13. About 100m before the Km 3 marker, turn right and follow the “Massage Sauna” signs another 800m.

EATING

Eating with the locals, especially at breakfast and lunch, is a fun experience. The restaurant under the Lan Kham hotel, just across Rte 13, the Mengky Noodle Shop are safe and popular places for noodle soup; Mengky is rightly famous for its duck breakfasts. Even better is the Local restaurants on Th 46, each one serving something slightly difference, just wander along and take your pick. The restaurant are open all day.

Lao, Thai & Vietnamese
Xuan Mai Restaurant
Add: Th4 – Tel: 213245
Meals US$ 1- 2.50 – breakfast, lunch & dinner.
On the corner opposite the Pakse Hotel, Xuan Mai serves top-notch foe (US$ 0.80; the chicken foe is best), khao pun (white flour noodles sweet-spicy sauce), fruit shakes garlic bread. Open until midnight, it’s the best place for a late feed.

Ketmany Restaurant
Tel: 212615
Meals US$ 1.50- 4 – breakfast, lunch & dinner
Serves decent European food good Vietnamese dishes, though not on the English menu so you will need to ask by name. It also has good ice cream and packed – with – process- meat western breakfasts ( US$ 2 )

Champady
Tel: 020-513 0513
Meals US$ 1.5 – 4.5 – breakfast, lunch & dinner.
In a French- era building, atmospheric Champady serves Thai cuisine and coffee in an street side location.

Khem Khong Restaurant
Tel: 213240
Meals US$ 2 – 5 – breakfast, lunch and dinner.
On the Mekong just south of town, this is one of several floating restaurants and has a well-earned reputation for excellent for excellent seafood. It’s best in a group so you can share several dishes, especially grilled fish.

Western & Indian

Delta Coffee
Tel: 030-534 5895
Meal US$ 1- 1.5 – breakfast, lunch & dinner.
Delta serves a vast array or food, the best being the Italian and Thai dishes. The vegetarian lasagna and pizza are particularly recommended but not the gnocchi.

Van Pisa Restaurant
Tel: 212 982
Pizzas US$ 3.5 – breakfast, lunch, dinner .
An Italian-run Italian restaurant where the pizzas are quite good and pastas are as tasty as the ingredients allow. They also serve delicious shakes and ice cream.

DRINKING AND ENTERTAINMENT

Sinouk Coffee Shop
Add: corner Th 9 & Th 11 – Tel: 212552
Coffee US$ 0.6 , Open: 7 am- 8 pm
In the renovated French shop house this café is best known for its (from US$ 2 for 250 gr ). They also sell Beerlao and have a small menu of western dishes.

The Champasak Place Hotel
Add: Opposite the Sinouk Coffee Shop
should have its top floor bar restaurant open by the time you arrive and it should be the classiest drinking spot in town. The roof top bar at the Pakse hotel is also good for sunset Beerlao or two

For some Lao style partying , check out Lotty (Add: Th 11 – Open: 6 – 11 pm), the current favourite night club among young Lao looking to drink and dance; downstairs is where the action is.